Category: Guides

Pollonia is the small harbour village on the north east tip of Milos, a curve of white houses, fish tavernas and moored caiques facing the island of Kimolos across a narrow channel. It is quieter than Adamas, flatter and more seaside than Plaka, and it is the starting point for the short crossing to Kimolos and for boat days around Polyaigos, the largest uninhabited island in the Aegean. This guide covers what Pollonia is like, its beaches and food, how to get to Kimolos from here, and how our boats fit in when you stay on this side of the island.

Where Pollonia is and what it is like

Pollonia sits on a sheltered inlet on the north eastern corner of Milos, about 10 km from Adamas. The road from the port runs past Triovasalos and the prehistoric site of Fylakopi before dropping down to the sea. The village is built right around the water: a promenade lined with tamarisk trees, a small fishing harbour with colourful boats, a church on the waterfront and a row of tavernas and cafés facing the channel. Across the narrow channel you see the bare hills and white village of Kimolos.

It is a small place. At the 2021 census Pollonia had 268 permanent residents, and in winter it is a quiet fishing village. In summer the population swells with visitors staying in the studios, apartments and small hotels around the bay and on the slopes behind it, and the waterfront becomes one of the liveliest places on the island in the evening, without ever feeling like a resort town.

Most of the buildings follow the classic Cycladic style: white cubes, coloured doors and shutters, flat roofs and small gardens. There are mini markets, shops and car rentals, so you can spend a whole holiday here without depending on Adamas.

Is Pollonia worth visiting?

Yes, even if you are not staying there. Pollonia is one of the prettiest seaside villages on Milos, and it works well for three kinds of visit:

• An evening out. The evening light on the waterfront, the lights coming on across the channel in Kimolos and a fish dinner by the water are a classic Milos evening.
• A beach morning. The main beach is sandy and shallow, which suits families, and it is sheltered from the north wind on most days.
• A starting point. The ferry to Kimolos leaves from here, and many boat trips to Kimolos and Polyaigos start from the channel between the two islands.

If you want nightlife, archaeology and ferries to Athens, Adamas is more convenient. If you want quiet streets, the sea on your doorstep and seafood every night, Pollonia is hard to beat. For a comparison of all the bases on the island, read our guide to where to stay in Milos.

The beaches of Pollonia

The main beach runs along the bay in front of the village. It has fine sand, very shallow water close to shore and tamarisk trees that give natural shade, with the tavernas only a few steps away. Because it is inside a sheltered inlet, the sea is usually calm, and it is one of the easiest beaches on Milos for small children.

Polychroni is a small organised beach close to the village, with sunbeds and a relaxed feel.

Piso Thalassa, which means the back sea, lies on the other side of the small peninsula, facing a different direction. When the wind blows into the main bay, Piso Thalassa can be the calmer option, and the reverse is also true.

Further out, the north coast of Milos has some of the most famous beaches on the island, including Sarakiniko with its white lunar rock, the fishing coves of Firopotamos and Papafragas. For the rest of the island, see our guide to Milos beaches by boat.

Where to eat in Pollonia

Pollonia is known on Milos as the village of fish tavernas. Several restaurants line the waterfront, most of them serving the catch of the day from the boats in the harbour, along with Greek salads, fried calamari, octopus and local cheeses. There are also cafés for breakfast and coffee by the water.

A few tips:

• In July and August, book a table for dinner, especially for the waterfront tables at sunset.
• Ask for the fish of the day and its price by the kilo before you order, as is normal in Greek fish tavernas.
• Try the local cheese pies known as pitarakia, a Milos speciality.

If you are out on a boat for the day, lunch in Pollonia is not practical from our base on the south coast, but on routes that start with a pick up at Pollonia, a long dinner back in the village is the perfect end to the day.

Things to do in and around Pollonia

• Walk to the cape of Pelekouda. A short walk east of the village leads to the lighthouse and the small church at the tip of the cape, with wide views over the channel to Kimolos and Polyaigos.
• Visit Fylakopi. On the road to Adamas are the ruins of Fylakopi, one of the most important prehistoric settlements of the Cyclades, once a centre of the obsidian trade.
• Swim at Papafragas. A few minutes west by car, this narrow inlet between high cliffs is one of the most photographed spots on the north coast; our guide to the sea caves of Milos explains how it looks from the sea.
• Go to Sarakiniko. The white moonscape beach is about 10 minutes away by car, best early in the morning.
• Take the boat to Kimolos. A half day or a full day on the neighbouring island is the easiest excursion from Pollonia.
• Stay for the evening. The waterfront faces north east, and the soft light on Kimolos and the boats in the harbour at dusk is one of the calmest scenes on the island.

For a complete plan of the island with day by day suggestions, see things to do in Milos.

From Pollonia to Kimolos and Polyaigos

The ferry to Kimolos. A small ferry connects Pollonia with Psathi, the port of Kimolos, several times a day in season. The crossing is short, and many visitors do Kimolos as a day trip on foot or with a rented scooter on the other side. Timetables change with the season, so check them at the port or with a local agency before you plan the day. Our Kimolos island guide covers the beaches, the villages and what to see once you land.

By private boat. A boat opens up everything the ferry cannot: the beaches of Kimolos that have no road, such as Prassa with its white sand, and the island of Polyaigos opposite, which has no inhabitants, no roads and no ferry at all. Polyaigos has some of the clearest water in the Cyclades, sea caves and coves you share with a handful of boats. Read our guide to visiting Polyaigos by boat.

Our own route for this area is a full day, around 9 hours, that circles Kimolos in the morning, stops at Prassa and the boat garages of Goupa, then crosses to Polyaigos for Blue Bay, the coloured cliffs and the sea caves, with lunch at anchor in Mersini. It runs with our captain on the Compass 7s or self drive on the no licence Compass 150cc, and pick up at Pollonia or at Psathi on Kimolos is available on request. The full list of routes is on our Milos boat tours page.

Staying in Pollonia and renting a boat

Our boats are kept at a floating platform at Agia Kiriaki, on the south coast of Milos. From Pollonia it is a drive across the island, and it is worth it when you want the south coast: Kleftiko is only 20 to 30 minutes from our platform, and the coloured beaches of Firiplaka, Tsigrado and Gerontas are a few minutes away.

When your day is about Kimolos and Polyaigos, the logic is reversed, and a pick up at Pollonia saves the drive. Tell us where you are staying when you book and we will suggest the best starting point.

Our boats and prices:

Fuel and taxes are not included. Half days run 09:00 to 14:00 or 14:30 to 19:30, full days 10:00 to 19:00, and a skipper can join the 150cc or the 165cc for 60 € for a half day or 120 € for a full day. For details on each boat, see which boat to rent in Milos, and if you have never driven a boat before, read renting a boat in Milos without a licence.

Wind, weather and the best time to go

Pollonia faces north east, and the channel between Milos and Kimolos funnels the north wind. On calm days the crossing is smooth and the water is glassy; on strong meltemi days, most common in July and August afternoons, the channel can be choppy and small boats stay in the south. So the route of the day depends on the forecast: Kimolos and Polyaigos on calm days, the sheltered south coast when the north wind blows.

May, June and September are the most comfortable months, with warm water, fewer crowds and lighter winds. Our guide to the best time to visit Milos covers the months, the sea temperature and the meltemi in detail.

Planning a day around Kimolos and Polyaigos from Pollonia? Send us your dates and where you are staying. Contact us.

FAQs

Firopotamos is the little fishing cove on the north coast of Milos that ends up on almost every postcard of the island: a horseshoe of turquoise water, a row of boat houses carved into the rock at the waterline, a tiny white chapel on the point and the ruins of an old mining building on the hill above. It has a small beach with calm, shallow water, a handful of houses and no village centre at all. This guide covers what makes Firopotamos special, how to get there and park, when the north coast is calm enough to swim, and how it fits into a Milos holiday built around the sea.

Where Firopotamos is

Firopotamos lies on the north coast of Milos, about 4 km north east of Plaka, the hilltop capital of the island, at the end of a short road that winds down from the main road between Plaka and Adamas. The settlement is built around a small natural bay, and at the last census only a handful of people lived here all year round. In summer the few houses fill with families from Plaka, who have used Firopotamos as their summer seaside retreat for generations.

From the castle of Plaka you can see Firopotamos far below, which gives you an idea of how close it is. It is a good stop to combine with Plaka, the catacombs, the ancient theatre and the fishing village of Klima, all within a few kilometres of each other.

Why Firopotamos is so special

Firopotamos packs almost every classic image of the Cyclades into a few hundred metres of coast. In one view you see:

• Turquoise water over a sandy bottom, framed by rocks on both sides.
• The syrmata, the boat houses built into the rock at sea level, with their painted doors.
• The chapel of Agios Nikolaos, a small whitewashed church on the rocks at the entrance of the bay. It is dedicated to the patron saint of sailors, and is often described as a memorial to the fishermen of the island who were lost at sea.
• The old industrial ruin on the hill above the bay, the remains of a building from the island’s long mining history. Milos has been mined since prehistoric times, for obsidian, and in modern times for minerals such as bentonite and perlite, and ruins like this one are scattered around its coasts.

It is also unusually calm. A natural rocky point closes much of the bay, so the water inside stays flat on most days, even when the open sea beyond is moving. That is why it works so well for families and for simply floating in clear water.

The syrmata: boat houses in the rock

The word syrmata comes from the Greek verb for dragging, because fishermen used to drag their boats up into these shelters at the end of the season. They are small rooms dug into the soft volcanic rock at the waterline, closed with wooden doors, where the boats spent the winter safe from wind and waves. Upstairs, above many of them, the fishing families built simple rooms to live in.

Today most of the syrmata are painted in bright colours, and many have been turned into summer houses, some of them rented to visitors. They are private homes, so admire them from the beach or the road and do not walk onto the terraces.

The most famous syrmata on Milos are in Klima, the village of coloured houses on the bay of Adamas, but Firopotamos has its own smaller row, and together with the chapel they make it one of the most photographed coves on the island.

The beach and the swimming

The beach at Firopotamos is small, with a mix of sand and small pebbles and a sandy sea bed that slopes gently into the water. Large trees at the back of the beach give some natural shade, a rare luxury on Milos. It is semi organised: there are a few sunbeds and a small beach bar with snacks and drinks, but most people simply lay a towel under the trees.

The snorkelling is pleasant around the rocks at both sides of the bay, where you see small fish, sea urchins and the volcanic rock that forms the coast. Near the point by the chapel the water deepens quickly and turns a deep blue. For the best snorkelling spots on the island, most of them on the sheltered south coast, read our guide to snorkelling in Milos.

It gets busy in the middle of the day in July and August, when the small beach can feel crowded. Early morning and late afternoon are much quieter, and the evening light on the chapel is beautiful.

Getting there and parking

By car. From Adamas or Plaka, take the road towards Plaka and follow the signs for Firopotamos down to the coast. The road is paved but narrow and winding, and the last part is steep. There is limited parking near the beach, which fills quickly in high season, and cars often end up parked along the road above the bay. Arriving before 10:30 makes it much easier.

On foot. The last stretch down to the water is by a short walk and steps from the road. It is easy, but carry only what you need.

By bus or taxi. In high season the island’s buses serve Plaka, and from there it is a walk of about 4 km, mostly downhill on the way there and uphill on the way back. A taxi from Adamas or Plaka is a simpler option for most people.

Combining Firopotamos with Plaka, the catacombs and Klima in one morning is easy by car, since all of them are close together in the north west of the island.

The north wind and when to go

Firopotamos is on the north coast, and that matters in summer. The meltemi, the strong north wind of the Aegean, blows most often in July and August, frequently for several days in a row. The bay itself is well sheltered by its rocky point, but on strong meltemi days the whole north coast is rough, the sea beyond the point is white with waves, and the road and beach can be windy and dusty.

So the rule on Milos is simple:

• Calm days or light south wind: the north coast is at its best. Go to Firopotamos, Sarakiniko and Papafragas.
• Meltemi days: go south. The south coast, with Firiplaka, Tsigrado, Paleochori and the approach to Kleftiko, is sheltered and flat.

May, June and September usually have lighter winds and warm water, which makes them the best months to enjoy both sides of the island. Our guide to the best time to visit Milos explains the wind and sea temperature month by month.

Other fishing villages of Milos

Firopotamos is one of several fishing settlements on the coast of Milos, each with its own character:

• Klima, on the bay of Adamas below Plaka, is the most famous, with its long row of syrmata painted in every colour.
• Mandrakia, on the north coast east of Firopotamos, is a tiny inlet with a few syrmata and a fish taverna.
• Pollonia, on the north east tip of the island, is a real village with a harbour, fish tavernas and the ferry to Kimolos. Read our guide to Pollonia.

If you are choosing where to base yourself, our guide to where to stay in Milos compares Adamas, Plaka, Pollonia and the south coast, and our Milos itinerary shows how to fit the north coast villages into a 3, 5 or 7 day trip.

Seeing the rest of the coast by boat

Firopotamos is a land trip, and a lovely one. The part of Milos that you cannot reach by road is elsewhere: the south and west coasts, with beaches under coloured cliffs and sea caves that are only reachable by boat. That is where our boats are, at the floating platform of Agia Kiriaki beach on the south coast, and it is also the coast that stays calm when the meltemi makes the north unpleasant.

From our base, Kleftiko with its white arches and caves is 20 to 30 minutes away, and the beaches of Firiplaka, Tsigrado and Gerontas are a few minutes along the coast.

Fuel and taxes are extra. The Compass 150cc comes with a 30 minute training before you leave, and a skipper can join the 150cc or 165cc for 60 € for a half day or 120 € for a full day. Compare the boats in which boat to rent in Milos, or see all the beaches you can reach in Milos beaches by boat.

A good plan for a week on Milos is to spend the calm days on the north coast by car, Firopotamos included, and keep a boat day for the first meltemi day. Tell us your dates and we will help you pick the right day. Contact us.

FAQs

Paleochori, also spelled Paliochori, is the beach on Milos where the volcano is still at work. Warm water bubbles up through the sand in the shallows, the cliffs behind the beach are stained red, orange and sulphur yellow, and one of the tavernas on the shore cooks its dishes by burying pots in the hot volcanic ground. It is a long beach with space for everyone, it is sheltered from the summer north wind, and it lies a short boat ride east of our base at Agia Kiriaki. Here is what to expect and how to plan a visit by road or by sea.

Where Paleochori is and what makes it different

Paleochori lies on the south east coast of Milos, below the old inland village of Zefiria, which was the capital of the island for centuries. The name means old village, a reminder of the settlements that once stood in this part of the island. The road from Adamas crosses the island through Zefiria and drops down to the coast, where the beach stretches out in a wide arc.

What sets Paleochori apart is colour and heat. Milos was built by volcanoes, and here the minerals in the rock have stained the cliffs in bands of deep red, rust, orange and bright yellow from sulphur. The water in front of them is clear and changes from green to deep blue as the day goes on and the sun moves.

The beach faces south, so the meltemi, the north wind of July and August, passes over it. When the north coast beaches are rough, Paleochori is one of the calmest and most comfortable places to swim on the island.

The hot springs in the sea

Paleochori is one of the few beaches in Greece where you can feel geothermal heat while you swim. In the shallows, especially near the rocks at the edges of the beach, streams of small bubbles rise from the sea bed and the water around them is noticeably warmer. Dig your feet into the wet sand at the waterline and in some spots it becomes hot within a few centimetres. Measurements of the sand have recorded temperatures around 100 °C a little below the surface, which is why you should never dig deep with your hands.

A few sensible rules:

• Test the sand with your foot before lying on it in the hottest spots near the rocks.
• Keep small children away from the areas where the ground is visibly steaming.
• Snorkel slowly near the rocks: the bubbling vents in clear water are one of the strangest sights in the Cyclades.

The underwater vents and warm patches are part of the same volcanic system that shaped the whole south coast. Our guide to snorkelling in Milos explains where else you can see volcanic features underwater.

Three beaches in one

Paleochori is really three beaches joined by rocks and short paths.

• The middle beach is the organised one, where the road arrives. It has sunbeds and umbrellas to rent, showers and changing cabins, a beach bar, water sports and several tavernas and cafés along the shore. It is the easiest choice for families and for anyone who wants lunch without moving.
• The two side beaches, to the left and right of the main one, are reached on foot along the rocks and short paths. They have no facilities, fewer people and the most dramatic cliffs. Bring water and shade.

The sand is mixed with small pebbles, and the sea bed is sandy near the shore in the main section. The water gets deep quickly at the edges, where the snorkelling is best.

Arriving by boat you pick the section you want and anchor off it. Most of our guests choose one of the quiet ends for the swim and then move to the middle beach for lunch.

Food cooked in volcanic sand

The best known table on the beach belongs to a restaurant that uses the island’s geology as its oven. Pots of marinated meat or fresh fish are sealed and buried in pits of hot volcanic sand next to the taverna, and left to cook slowly for hours, sometimes overnight. The result is a very tender, slow cooked dish that you will not find anywhere else in the Cyclades. Lamb, fish, squid and lobster are among the dishes, and the menu changes with the season.

A few tips:

• In July and August, book a table or arrive early for lunch; the sand cooked dishes sell out.
• If you are coming by boat, anchor off the middle beach and swim or wade ashore for lunch, then return to the boat for the afternoon.
• The other tavernas on the beach serve classic Greek dishes and fresh fish, and they are also a good option for a long lunch in the shade.

Milos is proud of its food, and a lunch at Paleochori is one of the easiest ways to add a local story to a beach day.

Getting there by car

From Adamas, follow the road towards Zefiria and continue south to the coast. The route is asphalt all the way and takes about 20 to 25 minutes. There is a parking area near the middle beach, which is enough outside the peak hours, but in July and August it fills by late morning and cars line the road down. The local bus serves the south coast in high season, with a stop close to the beach; check the current timetable in Adamas, as it changes each year.

The side beaches are only a short walk from the parking area, but the paths over the rocks are uneven. Wear proper sandals rather than flip flops.

If you are staying in Adamas, Plaka or Pollonia and want to combine Paleochori with other south coast beaches the same day, driving means parking several times in busy lots. That is where a boat saves hours.

Getting there by boat from Agia Kiriaki

Our boats leave from the floating platform at Agia Kiriaki beach, on the same south coast. Paleochori is a short run east along the shore, past cliffs and small coves that have no road at all. You anchor in clear water off the beach and swim in.

Our three boats:

• Compass 150cc, Yamaha 30 hp, up to 5 people, no licence needed: 180 € for a half day, 300 € for a full day. A full 30 minute training is included before you leave the platform, and snorkelling gear is on board free. See renting a boat in Milos without a licence.
• Compass 165cc, Mercury 115 hp, up to 6 people, with a speedboat licence or one of our skippers: 250 € half day, 450 € full day, soft drinks and water included.
• Compass 7s, 250 hp, up to 7 passengers with our captain: 550 € half day, 950 € full day, with drinks, snacks, fruit, local wine, snorkelling gear, towels and GoPro photos included.

Fuel and taxes are not included in any of the prices, and a skipper can join the 150cc or the 165cc for 60 € for a half day or 120 € for a full day. For a detailed comparison of the three, read which boat to rent in Milos.

From the sea you also see what the road hides: the coloured cliffs from end to end, the small inlets between the three sections, and the rock formations along the coast towards the east.

Best time of day and the wind

Mornings are the calmest and clearest time at Paleochori, and the colours of the cliffs are strongest in the soft light before noon and again in the late afternoon. The middle beach gets busy between 12:00 and 17:00 in high season, while the side beaches stay quieter all day.

The wind is the main factor. On meltemi days, which are frequent in July and August, the south coast is sheltered and Paleochori is flat. On the rarer days of south wind, waves roll straight in, the water turns cloudy and the north coast becomes the better choice. For month by month conditions and water temperatures, see our guide to the best time to visit Milos.

A south east coast day by boat

A relaxed half day in the Compass 150cc, 09:00 to 14:00, could look like this:

With a full day you can combine the east and the west: Paleochori in the morning, then Firiplaka and Tsigrado around midday, and in the faster Compass 165cc or the skippered 7s, Kleftiko in the afternoon. All the routes are compared in Milos boat trips: half day vs full day, and our private captained routes are on the Milos boat tours page. For every beach on the island in one guide, see Milos beaches by boat.

What to bring

• Sandals with grip for the rocky paths between the three beaches.
• Water and snacks if you are heading to the side beaches.
• Mask and snorkel for the bubbling vents near the rocks.
• Sun protection: there is little natural shade outside the organised section.
• Cash or a card for the tavernas and the beach bar.
• By boat: an umbrella and a cool box, which stay on board all day.

Want to swim over the hot springs from your own boat? Send us your date and group size and we will suggest the right boat. Contact us.

FAQs

Firiplaka is the long beach on the south coast of Milos with the cliffs everyone photographs: layers of white, cream, ochre and rust red volcanic rock rising behind a wide strip of pale sand, and a huge boulder standing in the turquoise water. It is one of the few big beaches on the island that is sheltered from the summer north wind, it has a beach bar at one end and quiet sand at the other, and it sits a few minutes by boat from our base at Agia Kiriaki. This guide covers how to get there by road, what to expect on the sand, and why so many of our guests make it their first swim of the day.

Where Firiplaka is and why the cliffs look like that

Firiplaka lies on the southern coast of Milos, on the stretch of shore between the family beach of Provatas and the tiny ladder cove of Tsigrado. The whole island is volcanic, and this part of the coast shows it more clearly than anywhere else. The cliffs at both ends of the beach are made of layered volcanic ash and tuff that settled in bands of different minerals, which is why you see white next to cream, pale yellow, orange and a deep rusty red in the same wall of rock. Wind and waves have carved the softer layers into overhangs, small caves and rounded shapes.

The most photographed feature is the big rock standing in the water close to the shore. It is a single block of volcanic stone with a hollow at sea level, and on a calm day swimmers go right up to it and look into the shaded cave underneath. Around it the sea bed is sandy, so the water turns that milky turquoise colour that makes Milos look unreal in photographs.

Unlike the north coast beaches such as Sarakiniko, which are at their best on still days, Firiplaka faces south. The meltemi, the strong north wind of July and August, blows over the island and leaves the south coast flat. That single fact explains why Firiplaka is busy on exactly the days when the north of Milos is too rough to swim.

Driving to Firiplaka: road, parking and the walk down

From Adamas, the main port, you follow the road south across the island towards Provatas and then turn off for Firiplaka. The drive takes about 20 minutes in normal traffic. The last part is a track that ends in a large, unpaved parking area above the beach. From there a short path, roughly five minutes on foot, drops down to the sand. It is an easy walk compared with the ladders at Tsigrado, but it is steep enough that a cool box on wheels is more trouble than it is worth.

A few practical points from what we see every summer:

• Parking is free but not unlimited. In July and August the parking area fills by late morning, and cars end up along the track. Arriving before 10:30 or after 16:30 makes life easier.
• The track is dusty and uneven. A normal rental car manages it slowly; an ATV or small 4×4 is more comfortable.
• The local bus runs towards the south coast beaches in high season and stops within walking distance, but schedules change every year, so check the current timetable in Adamas.
• There is no shade on the path. In the middle of the day the walk back up is the hottest ten minutes of the outing.

If you are staying in Adamas, Plaka or Pollonia and do not want to drive at all, the boat is the simpler answer, and it also saves the search for a parking space.

Arriving by boat from Agia Kiriaki

Our boats leave from the floating platform at Agia Kiriaki beach, on the same south coast. Firiplaka is one of the first bays you reach, a few minutes along the coast at a relaxed speed. You anchor in sandy water off the beach, clear of the swimming area, and swim or wade ashore. From the sea you also see the cliffs the way they are meant to be seen: the whole coloured wall in one view, with the big rock in the foreground.

All three of our boats can do it:

• Compass 150cc, Yamaha 30 hp, up to 5 people, no licence needed: 180 € for a half day and 300 € for a full day. Every crew gets a full 30 minute training before leaving the platform. Read more in renting a boat in Milos without a licence.
• Compass 165cc, Mercury 115 hp, up to 6 people, with a speedboat licence or one of our skippers: 250 € half day, 450 € full day. Fast enough to add Kleftiko to the same morning.
• Compass 7s, 250 hp, up to 7 passengers with our captain: 550 € half day, 950 € full day, with drinks, snacks, fruit, local wine, snorkelling gear, towels and GoPro photos on board.

Fuel and taxes are extra on all three, and a skipper can join the 150cc or the 165cc for 60 € for a half day or 120 € for a full day. The side by side comparison is in which boat to rent in Milos.

The boat changes the day in two ways. First, you are not limited to what you can carry down a path: umbrella, cool box, snorkel gear and inflatables all stay on board. Second, when Firiplaka gets crowded at midday you simply lift the anchor and move to a quieter cove a few minutes away.

What the beach is like

Firiplaka is long by Milos standards, with fine, pale grey and silver sand that gets a little coarser near the rocks. The water deepens gently, which makes it easy for swimmers of every level, and the colour changes from pale green over the sand to deep blue further out. On calm mornings the visibility is excellent.

The snorkelling is best at the two ends, where the cliffs meet the sea, and around the big rock. Expect small fish in the shallows, rounded volcanic boulders and patches of seagrass further out. If snorkelling is the main reason for your trip, our guide to snorkelling in Milos ranks the best spots on the island, most of them on this coast.

There is very little natural shade. The cliffs throw some shadow early and late in the day, but for most of the day you need an umbrella, either rented on the organised part or brought with you.

The beach bar side and the quiet side

Firiplaka is really two beaches in one. The first part, close to where the path arrives, is organised: rows of sunbeds and umbrellas to rent, and a beach bar that serves coffee, fresh juices, cold drinks and light snacks. This is the part that fills up first.

Walk further along the sand, away from the bar, and the sunbeds stop. The rest of the beach is free, with plenty of room to spread a towel even in August, and it is where the cliffs are most dramatic. Many visitors set up here and walk back to the bar only for a coffee.

Arriving by boat you choose your side by choosing where to anchor. Most of our guests drop anchor off the quiet end, swim ashore, and only use the bar if they feel like a frappé.

Firiplaka with children

Firiplaka is one of the better beaches on Milos for families. The entry into the sea is sandy and gradual, the water is usually calm thanks to the southern exposure, and the organised section has shade and a place to buy water and snacks. The walk from the parking area is short enough for most children, though a toddler will need carrying on the way back up.

With small children the boat has an extra advantage: there is no path to climb at the end of a hot day, the cool box is always within reach, and the Compass 150cc has a sun shade.

Best time of day and the wind

The light on the cliffs is best in the morning and again late in the afternoon, when the low sun warms the orange and red layers. The water is clearest before the crowds arrive, so for photographs and snorkelling the first hours of the day are ideal. Families who dislike the heat often come after 16:30, when the sand cools and the parking area empties.

The wind matters more than the month. On meltemi days, which are frequent in July and August, the north coast is rough while Firiplaka stays sheltered and swimmable. The rare days of southerly wind are the opposite: swell comes straight into the bay, and on those days the beaches of the north coast are the better choice. Our guide to the best time to visit Milos explains the wind pattern month by month.

A morning on the south coast by boat

Firiplaka fits naturally into a half day on the south coast. A typical morning slot in the no licence Compass 150cc, 09:00 to 14:00, might look like this:

In the Compass 165cc or the skippered Compass 7s the same morning stretches to Kleftiko and the sea caves of Milos. The differences between a half day and a full day, and which routes fit each, are laid out in Milos boat trips: half day vs full day. If you prefer someone else at the wheel, our Milos boat tours page lists the private routes we run with our captain.

For a closer look at the cove next door, read our guide to Tsigrado beach, and for the full coastline in one article see Milos beaches by boat.

What to bring

• An umbrella if you plan to stay on the free part of the beach.
• Water and snacks, or money for the beach bar.
• Reef safe sunscreen and a hat; the reflection off the pale sand is strong.
• Mask and snorkel for the rocks at each end and the big boulder.
• Water shoes if you want to climb onto the rocks.
• By boat: whatever you like, the boat is your locker for the day.

Ready to see the cliffs from the water? Tell us your date and group size and we will match you to the right boat. Contact us.

FAQs

Sarakiniko is the photograph that sells Milos: bone-white rock rolling down to a slot of turquoise water, no plants, no sand, no colour except the sea. It is the most visited place on the island and, unusually for Milos, one of the easiest to reach, a few kilometres from Adamas on a paved road. This guide covers what the rock is, how to get there, where to swim, when to go to avoid the crowd, and something most guides skip: what Sarakiniko looks like from the water, and when a boat day along the north coast makes sense.

What Sarakiniko is and why it is white

Sarakiniko is not a beach in the usual sense. It is a stretch of the north shore where the volcanic bedrock, a pale mix of ash, pumice and silica-rich deposits from the eruptions that built Milos, reaches the sea with almost no soil on top. Nothing grows on it, so nothing hides the colour. Wind and waves from the north have rounded every edge into domes, gullies and ledges, and the sun bleaches the surface until it reads as white against the blue. The name comes from the Saracen pirates who are said to have used the inlets along this coast as a hideout.

The result is the most photographed landscape on Milos and one of the most unusual shorelines in Greece. At the centre a narrow inlet cuts inland, with a small patch of sand at its head, which is where most people swim. Either side the rock spreads out in flat terraces you can walk across for a few hundred metres, with small caves and overhangs at the waterline.

How to get to Sarakiniko

• By car, scooter or ATV. From Adamas follow the road north towards Plaka and take the signed turn to Sarakiniko; it is a short drive on asphalt. The parking area at the end is small and fills by mid-morning in July and August, with cars then lining the approach road.
• By bus. In summer the local bus connects Adamas with Sarakiniko, Plaka and Pollonia. Timetables change by month, so check the current one at the port.
• On foot. From the car park it is a two-minute walk down to the inlet. The rock is smooth and can be slippery when wet, so shoes with grip are better than flip-flops if you plan to explore the terraces.
• By boat. Sarakiniko is on the north coast, opposite side of the island from our base at Agia Kiriaki, so from the sea it is part of a north coast route rather than a quick stop. Details below.

For where to stay so that Sarakiniko, Plaka and the port are all close, see our guide to where to stay in Milos.

Swimming, the inlet and the wreck

The inlet is the place to swim. It is narrow, sheltered from most wind, shallow at its head and deep and clear towards the mouth, with white rock on both sides that makes the water glow. It is popular, so early and late are calmer. Around the inlet the flat rocks drop straight into deeper water; people swim and jump from them on calm days, but there are no ladders or steps, so pick a spot where you can climb out.

Snorkelling is better than you would expect from a landscape with no seagrass. The white bottom makes the water exceptionally clear, and on a calm day you can swim out of the inlet and along the rocks to the east, where the rusting remains of a small cargo ship sit on the shore; it is a favourite spot with a mask. Our snorkelling in Milos guide covers the conditions and the other north coast spots.

There are no sunbeds, umbrellas or showers on the rock. The shade is whatever you carry.

Best time of day and wind

Sarakiniko faces north, which decides everything. In a meltemi, the north wind that blows most July and August afternoons, waves break over the outer rocks and the open sea is rough; the inlet usually stays swimmable but the walk on the terraces is windy and spray-soaked. On those days the south coast beaches are flat and warm.

Timing matters as much as wind. Sunrise at Sarakiniko is famous for a reason: the rock is pink and gold, the car park is empty, and you can photograph the inlet with nobody in it. By 11:00 in high season the terraces are busy and the white rock throws the heat back at you; there is no shade at all. Late afternoon after 17:00 the crowd thins and the light softens again. Our best time to visit Milos guide covers the months; June and September give you Sarakiniko with a fraction of August’s numbers.

Sarakiniko from a boat

From the water Sarakiniko is a white wall with the inlet as a dark slot in the middle, and it is one of the sights of our north coast route: out of Pollonia or around from Agia Kiriaki, past the mining jetties at Thiorichia, Sarakiniko, then the narrow inlet of Papafragas and the basalt columns of Glaronisia. On a calm day you can anchor off the rocks and snorkel where the day visitors cannot reach.

Two things to know:

• It is a full day from our base, or a short run from Pollonia. Agia Kiriaki is on the south coast, so the north coast circuit is a full day in the Compass 165cc (licence or our skipper, 450 €) or the skippered, all-inclusive Compass 7s (950 €). With a pick-up at Pollonia arranged in advance and subject to availability, Sarakiniko and Papafragas become a half-day trip. The no-licence Compass 150cc stays on the south coast.
• It needs a calm or southerly day. In a meltemi the north coast is the exposed side and we route boats to the south coast and Kleftiko instead. Ask us the evening before; the forecast picks the coast.

Half-day versus full-day timings for every route are in Milos boat trips: half day vs full day, and the three ways of seeing the coast are compared in Milos boat tours.

What to bring and what to avoid

• Water, a hat and reef-safe sunscreen: white rock, no shade, strong reflection.
• Shoes with grip for the terraces; the rock is smooth and slippery near the water.
• Mask and snorkel for the inlet and the wreck.
• A rash vest if you plan a long swim in the reflected sun.
• Do not jump without checking the depth and an exit, do not carve or paint the rock, and take everything back with you; there are no bins on the terraces.

Sarakiniko and the rest of Milos

Sarakiniko is the land highlight of Milos; the sea highlights are on the other coasts. Kleftiko, the white arches and caves of the south-west, is reached only by boat and is 20 to 30 minutes from our base. Tsigrado, the tiny cove between cliffs on the south coast, is famous for its ladder and simple from the sea. The collapsed roof of Sykia and the other sea caves of Milos complete the set. A good Milos plan has Sarakiniko at sunrise on a land day and Kleftiko on a boat day; our 3, 5 and 7-day itinerary shows how they fit.

Ready for the boat day? Tell us your dates and group and we will match the coast to the forecast. See our Milos boat tours and prices, or contact us.

FAQs

Polyaigos has no port, no road, no taverna and no ferry. It has eighteen square kilometres of cliffs, goats and some of the clearest water in Greece, and it sits just across the channel from Kimolos, within a day’s reach of Milos. That combination, spectacular and empty, is exactly why it is worth the trip, and also why the only way to see it is from a boat. This guide covers what is there, when to go, and how we get you there from Milos.

What Polyaigos is

Polyaigos (also written Poliegos or Polyegos) is an uninhabited island of the Western Cyclades, administratively part of the community of Kimolos. With about 18 km² and roughly 17 km of coastline it is the largest island in the Aegean with no permanent residents. The name means “many goats”, and goats are still the only inhabitants, along with the wild birds and the Mediterranean monk seals that use its sea caves. The island is protected under the Natura 2000 network and in 2025 was declared an archaeological site to safeguard its prehistoric and Classical remains.

What draws boats is the coast. The north and west shores are pale limestone and white pebble coves over a sandy floor, which is why the water looks Caribbean; the south and east are volcanic, with cliffs in rust, ochre and yellow, carved into caves at sea level. Because nobody lives there, there is no light at night, no music, no sunbeds and, on a weekday morning, often no other boat.

How to get to Polyaigos

There is no scheduled ferry to Polyaigos and no place to land a car. Every visitor arrives by private or chartered boat.

• From Pollonia (Milos) or Psathi (Kimolos): the closest departure points. Polyaigos is about 15 minutes by fast boat from either, across the Kimolos channel. Day-cruise operators leave from both harbours in summer.
• From our base at Agia Kiriaki (south coast of Milos): 60 to 75 minutes by fast boat around the east of the island, usually combined with a circuit of Kimolos. This is the full-day version.
• With a pick-up at Pollonia or Psathi: on request and subject to availability, we can deliver the boat to Pollonia port or to Psathi so that Polyaigos becomes a half-day trip. Ask when you book and we will confirm for your date.

From Milos the classic combination is a full day: Kimolos in the morning, the crossing to Polyaigos at midday, and home in the afternoon. Our Kimolos island guide covers the first half of that day in detail.

What to see: beaches, caves and the lighthouse

• Blue Bay (Galazia Nera). The famous anchorage on the north-west coast: a wide bay over white sand where the water shades from pale green to deep turquoise. The main swim stop on almost every visit.
• Mersini. A sheltered cove on the north side with a small pebble beach, the usual lunch anchorage and the calmest water on a north-wind day.
• Ammoura, Vromolimnos and Panagia. Smaller coves on the northern and western shores, empty even in August. Panagia takes its name from the ruined Monastery of the Dormition, built in 1622 on the north-western side of the island.
• The coloured cliffs and sea caves. Along the south and east coast the volcanic rock rises straight from the sea in bands of red, orange and yellow, cut with caves you can look into from the boat. Some of these caves are monk seal resting places, so we look from a distance and do not enter. Our guide to the sea caves of Milos puts them in context with Kleftiko and Sykia.
• Cape Maskoula lighthouse. On the southern tip, a stone lighthouse built in 1898, still standing above the cliffs. A landmark on the circuit and a good photograph from the water.
• Snorkelling. The shallows off Blue Bay and the rocky edges of the coves have the best visibility in the Milos group; see snorkelling in Milos for what you will see and how to do it safely.

A day around Kimolos and Polyaigos

A typical full day in the Compass 7s with our captain, or the Compass 165cc with a licence:

With a Pollonia pick-up the day shrinks to a half day slot with the same Polyaigos stops and less driving. Timings for every route are in Milos boat trips: half day vs full day.

Which boat

• Compass 7s, 250 hp, up to 7 passengers, always with our captain, all inclusive: 950 € for the full day. The right boat for Polyaigos: the range, the speed for the crossing, snorkelling gear and drinks on board, and someone else reading the sea. Details on the Compass 7s page.
• Compass 165cc, 115 hp, up to 6 people, boat licence or one of our skippers: 450 € for the full day, fuel extra. Reaches Polyaigos from Agia Kiriaki in 60 to 75 minutes on a calm day, or in minutes with a Pollonia pick-up. See the Compass 165cc.
• Compass 150cc, the no-licence boat: not for this trip. Its 30 hp and 50-litre tank are sized for the south coast coves, not for the crossing to Polyaigos.

The full comparison is in which boat to rent in Milos, and the three ways of seeing the islands, shared cruise, private skippered boat or self-drive, in our guide to Milos boat tours.

Weather, seals and rules

• Wind. The Kimolos channel and the west side of Polyaigos are open to the meltemi. On a strong north-wind day the crossing is uncomfortable and Blue Bay loses its shelter; that is the day for the south coast of Milos instead. Check the marine forecast the evening before and let us advise on the morning.
• Seals. Polyaigos is one of the most important refuges of the Mediterranean monk seal in the Cyclades. If you see one, keep the boat at a distance, do not follow it and stay out of the caves. It is a legal protection, and the seals are why the island is still wild.
• No facilities. There is no water, no shade beyond the cliffs and no bin. Whatever you bring comes back with you.
• Anchoring. Sand at Blue Bay and Mersini, not seagrass. We show you where on the briefing.

Polyaigos or Kleftiko?

The question we hear most. Kleftiko is 20 to 30 minutes from our base, has the white arches and tunnels, and fits into a half day. Polyaigos is a full day, further and wilder, with fewer boats and clearer water. If you have one boat day, take Kleftiko. If you have two, the second is Polyaigos, and it is the one people describe afterwards as the best swim of their holiday. Our Milos itinerary shows where each fits in a 3, 5 or 7-day trip.

What to bring

• Water, food and everything you would normally buy at a beach bar; there is none.
• Reef-safe sunscreen, hat and a rash vest for long snorkelling sessions.
• Mask and snorkel, or use the gear on board the Compass 7s.
• A windbreaker for the crossing home in the afternoon breeze.
• A dry bag for phones and cameras.

Ready for Polyaigos? Tell us your dates and group and we will suggest the boat, the pick-up point and the best day of your week for the crossing. See our Milos boat tours and prices, or contact us.

FAQs

Tsigrado is the beach everyone has seen on a reel: a slot of turquoise water between white cliffs, reached by squeezing down a crack in the rock on two wooden ladders and a rope. It is tiny, it is beautiful, and the descent stops a lot of people at the top. What the videos rarely mention is that Tsigrado sits on the south coast of Milos, five to ten minutes by boat from our base at Agia Kiriaki, and from the water you simply drop anchor and swim in. This guide covers both ways in, honestly.

Where Tsigrado is and why it looks like that

Tsigrado lies on the southern coast of Milos, roughly 11 km from Adamas by road, tucked into the cliffs immediately east of Firiplaka beach. Milos is a volcanic island, and this stretch of coast is made of soft white and cream tuff that the sea has carved into overhangs, small caves and one very narrow gully. The gully is Tsigrado’s front door. At the bottom of it the cliffs open into a small pocket of fine sand with water that shades from pale green at the shore to deep blue beyond the rocks. Because the cove is enclosed on three sides, the sea inside is usually flat even when the north coast is white with meltemi.

Getting there by land: parking, path and ladder

From Adamas, follow the road south towards Provatas and Firiplaka; the turn for Tsigrado is signposted just past Firiplaka and ends at a dirt parking area on top of the cliff. From the car park it is about a five-minute walk to the edge.

The descent is the famous part. A crack in the cliff, barely a shoulder wide in places, drops to the beach in three stages: a short wooden ladder, a steeper second ladder, and a rope for the last few metres of sloping rock. It takes most people two to four minutes going down and a little longer coming up. In practice:

• Wear shoes with grip, not flip-flops, and keep both hands free. A small backpack is fine, a cool box is not.
• It is one way at a time. In July and August a queue builds at the top by late morning and the wait can be longer than the climb.
• Skip it with small children, with anyone unsteady on ladders, or after rain when the rock is slick.
• There is nothing at the bottom: no bar, no sunbeds, no shade until the sun is high. Carry down everything you need and carry it back up.

The drive from Adamas takes about 20 minutes; the last stretch is a rough track that an ATV or small 4×4 handles better than a city car.

Getting there by boat: the easy way

From the water, Tsigrado is just a pretty cove. Our boats leave from the floating platform at Agia Kiriaki on the south coast, and Tsigrado is the second or third stop east: five to ten minutes at a relaxed speed, past Provatas and the coloured cliffs of Firiplaka. You anchor a few boat lengths off the sand in clear water, swim or wade in, and have the beach without touching a ladder.

Any of our three boats does it:

• Compass 150cc, 30 hp, up to 5 people, no licence needed: 180 € for a half day, 300 € for a full day. The natural choice for the south coast coves. Read more in renting a boat in Milos without a licence.
• Compass 165cc, 115 hp, up to 6 people, boat licence or one of our skippers: 250 € and 450 €. Adds Kleftiko in 20 to 30 minutes for the same day.
• Compass 7s, 250 hp, up to 7 passengers, always with our captain, all inclusive: 550 € and 950 €.

Fuel is extra on the self-drive boats. We brief every crew on the coast before departure, including where to anchor at Tsigrado so the boat sits clear of the swimmers. For the full comparison see which boat to rent in Milos.

The boat also solves the two things the land route cannot: you are not limited to what you can carry down a ladder, and when the cove fills up at midday you move on to Gerontas or Kleftiko instead of queuing to leave.

What the beach is like

Tsigrado is small. On a quiet morning it feels like a private pool; by 13:00 in August it can hold more towels than sand. The bottom is fine sand near the shore with rocks and small overhangs on both sides, which is where the snorkelling is: sea bream and wrasse in the shallows, and light shafts under the ledges. Bring a mask, it is one of the better spots on the south coast and appears in our guide to snorkelling in Milos. The water stays calm in almost any wind except a direct southerly.

There are no facilities of any kind. The nearest tavernas and parking with shade are at Firiplaka and Provatas, a few minutes west.

Best time of day and wind

The cliffs are high, so the sand is in shade until mid-morning and again from late afternoon. For photographs and the clearest water, arrive early. By boat that means leaving Agia Kiriaki at 09:00 and having Tsigrado to yourselves before the first ladder groups appear.

Wind matters more than the calendar. When the meltemi blows from the north, which is most July and August afternoons, the north coast beaches close down and the south coast, Tsigrado included, stays flat and swimmable. On the rarer days of a southerly, swell enters the cove and the beach loses its charm; that is the day to go north instead. Our best time to visit Milos guide covers the months and the wind pattern in detail.

Firiplaka, Provatas and the rest of the south coast

Tsigrado is one beach on a coast full of them, all within 15 minutes of Agia Kiriaki by boat:

• Firiplaka, next door to the west: a long strip of pale sand under red, ochre and white cliffs, with a beach bar and sunbeds. Busier than Tsigrado but with far more room.
• Provatas: sandy, shallow and family-friendly, with tavernas, just east of our base.
• Gerontas, ten minutes west: a wild cove with a natural rock arch and the best snorkelling on this coast, reached far more easily by boat than by the rough track.
• Paleochori, 10 to 15 minutes east: a long beach with hot springs bubbling through the sand and tavernas on the shore.

For the whole coastline in one place, see Milos beaches by boat, and for the west end, the white arches and caves of Kleftiko and the sea caves of Milos.

A half day built around Tsigrado

A typical morning slot, 09:00 to 14:00, in the no-licence Compass 150cc:

In the Compass 165cc or the skippered 7s, the same morning stretches to Kleftiko and Sykia after Gerontas. Half-day versus full-day timings for every route are in Milos boat trips: half day vs full day, and the three ways to see the coast are compared in our guide to Milos boat tours.

What to bring

• Water and snacks: there is nothing to buy at Tsigrado.
• Hat and reef-safe sunscreen; shade only exists under the cliffs early and late.
• Mask and snorkel, or use the gear on board the Compass 7s.
• Swim shoes for the rocks at the edges of the cove.
• By land: shoes with grip and a small backpack only. By boat: whatever fits, including the cool box.

Ready to see Tsigrado from the water? Tell us your date and group size and we will match you to a boat. See our Milos boat tours and prices, or contact us.

FAQs

Every Milos boat tour promises Kleftiko, turquoise water and a swim in a sea cave. What the listings do not tell you is that there are three very different ways to get there, and the right one depends on your group, your budget and the wind on the day. We run boats from Agia Kiriaki on the south coast, so this guide is written from the dock, with the honest trade-offs between a shared cruise, a private skippered boat and renting your own.

The three kinds of Milos boat tour

Search for a boat tour in Milos and you will find catamarans with lunch, speedboats with a captain and small motorboats you drive yourself. They all reach the same coastline, but the experience is not the same at all.

• Shared cruise. A sailing boat or catamaran leaves Adamas around 10:00 with 15 to 40 guests, sails the west coast to Kleftiko and Sykia, often continues to Polyaigos, and returns around 18:00 or 19:00. Lunch and drinks are usually included.
• Private skippered boat. A fast boat with a captain, just for your group. You choose the route and the stops, the skipper handles the sea. Our version is the Compass 7s, an all-inclusive powerboat for up to 7 passengers.
• Self-drive rental. You take the wheel. In Greece a 30 hp boat can be driven without any licence, so the Compass 150cc is open to everyone, while the 115 hp Compass 165cc needs a licence or one of our skippers.

The rest of this guide looks at each in turn, then puts them side by side. If you already know you want to drive, our guide to renting a boat in Milos without a licence covers the rules in detail.

Shared cruises from Adamas

This is the classic Milos boat tour, the one on every booking platform. You share a catamaran or a traditional sailing boat with other travellers, the crew does everything, and a lunch of Greek dishes is served on deck. Prices in 2026 run from about 80 € per person for a half-day speedboat to 150 € or more for the full-day catamaran with meals.

What works: no planning, no navigation, and a long day on the water for a fixed price. Solo travellers and couples get the best value here, because there is no boat to fill.

What does not: the schedule belongs to the boat, not to you. Adamas sits inside the bay on the north, so reaching Kleftiko takes 1.5 to 2 hours each way. Swim stops are timed, and the popular anchorages get busy between 12:00 and 15:00 when a dozen boats arrive together. Most cruises also cancel in a strong meltemi, and a refund does not give you the day back.

Private skippered boat

A private tour puts a captain and a fast boat at your group’s disposal. You still do nothing but swim and eat, but the route is built around you: leave at 09:00 to have Kleftiko before the fleet, linger where the water is clearest, skip what does not interest you.

Our skippered option is the Compass 7s: a 250 hp powerboat for up to 7 passengers, all inclusive, at 550 € for a half day and 950 € for a full day. Because we leave from Agia Kiriaki on the south coast, Kleftiko is 20 to 30 minutes away, Sykia another 10 minutes, and even Polyaigos is a comfortable full-day return. Snorkelling gear is on board, and the skipper knows which cave has the light at which hour.

For six people the maths is simple: 950 € for a private full day is about 158 € each, roughly what a shared catamaran charges, with none of the crowd.

Self-drive: rent your own boat

The third option is the one most visitors do not know exists: hire a small boat and captain it yourself. It is the cheapest way onto the water for a group, and the most flexible.

• Compass 150cc, no licence needed. 30 hp, up to 5 people, 180 € for a half day and 300 € for a full day. Perfect for the south coast coves (Firiplaka, Tsigrado, Gerontas) and, on a calm morning, Kleftiko in 40 to 50 minutes.
• Compass 165cc, licence or skipper. 115 hp, up to 6 people, 250 € half day and 450 € full day. Kleftiko in 20 to 30 minutes, Kimolos in 45 to 60, Polyaigos in 60 to 75. Fuel is extra on both.

We give a full briefing on the pontoon: the boat, the coast, the safe anchorages, where to stop and what to avoid. Compare the two boats in detail in which boat to rent in Milos.

Side by side: price, time and freedom

Routes worth a full tour

Whatever the format, these are the stretches of coast a Milos boat tour is built around.

• Kleftiko. White cliffs, arches and sea caves with no road access. The reason most people book a boat at all. See our Kleftiko guide for the caves and the best time of day.
• Sykia cave. A collapsed sea cave with a beach inside, 10 minutes beyond Kleftiko. Covered in Milos sea caves by boat.
• The south coast coves. Firiplaka, Tsigrado, Gerontas and Paleochori, all within 5 to 15 minutes of Agia Kiriaki and sheltered in a north wind. The natural half-day route for a self-drive boat, described in Milos beaches by boat.
• Kimolos and Polyaigos. The blue-water islands to the north-east: Prassa and Rema on Kimolos, then the empty coves of uninhabited Polyaigos. A full day, or a half day with a Pollonia pick-up. Start with the Kimolos island guide.
• Snorkelling stops. Gerontas arch, the Kleftiko caves and the Polyaigos shallows are the clearest water on the island. Our snorkelling in Milos guide lists them by boat.

For the half-day versus full-day decision, with timings for every route, read Milos boat trips: half day vs full day.

Sunset from your own boat

Plaka’s castle and Klima’s syrmata are the famous sunset spots on land, and they are crowded for a reason. From the water it is a different evening: the afternoon slot on our boats runs 14:30 to 19:30, which in July and August means the last hour is spent off the south coast as the cliffs turn from white to gold and the wind usually eases.

A few practical notes. Gerontas and Firiplaka face south-west and catch the last light; Kleftiko is at its calmest and emptiest after 17:00 once the cruise fleet has left for Adamas. The 150cc is fine for the coves, the 165cc or the skippered 7s for a Kleftiko sunset. Sunset in Milos is around 20:45 in late June and 19:45 in early September, so an afternoon rental sees the golden hour and returns with the light. There is no need to book a separate sunset cruise: an afternoon boat is the sunset tour.

Boat tours from Pollonia and Kimolos

Our base is Agia Kiriaki, but for the north-east routes we can arrange a pick-up at Pollonia or at Psathi on Kimolos, by prior agreement and subject to availability. From Pollonia the Kimolos channel, Prassa and the south of Polyaigos become a half-day trip rather than a full one, and a north wind is behind you on the way home. If you are staying in Pollonia or on Kimolos, say so when you book and we will tell you whether the pick-up works for your date.

How to choose in one minute

• Travelling alone or as a couple, first time on Milos, want lunch made for you: a shared cruise from Adamas.
• Family or group of four to seven, want Kleftiko without the crowd and someone else at the wheel: the private skippered Compass 7s.
• Group on a budget, happy to captain a small boat, want to stop wherever you like: self-drive Compass 150cc (no licence) or 165cc (licence or skipper).
• Only a half day free: self-drive or private from Agia Kiriaki, because the shared cruises need a full day to reach Kleftiko from Adamas.
• Want the sunset: the 14:30 to 19:30 slot on any of our boats.

Booking and weather tips

• Book ahead in high season. July and August sell out for both cruises and rentals; June and September have space and calmer seas. Our best time to visit Milos guide covers the months in detail.
• Watch the meltemi. The north wind blows hardest in July and August afternoons. It closes the north coast but leaves the south coast and the Kimolos channel sheltered, which is exactly where we start from. Check the Hellenic National Meteorological Service marine forecast the evening before.
• Go early or go late. Mornings are calmer and the anchorages are empty before 11:00; late afternoons are golden and empty again after 17:00.
• Bring the basics. Reef-safe sunscreen, hat, water, swim shoes, a windbreaker for the ride back and a dry bag. Life vests in all sizes and snorkelling gear on the 7s are on board.
• Ask about the new boat. A new addition, the Scorpion, is joining the Polaris fleet; contact us for availability and specifications.

Ready to get on the water? Tell us your dates, your group and what you want to see, and we will suggest the boat and the route. See our Milos boat tours and prices, or contact us.

FAQs

Short version: Santorini for the view, Paros for the all-rounder, Milos for the sea. Santorini is the caldera, the sunsets and the crowds that come with them. Paros is the easy island: good beaches, two lively towns, great ferry links and something for everyone. Milos is the volcanic coastline, 70-plus beaches, sea caves you can swim through and the best boat days in the Cyclades, with fewer people and less nightlife. We run boats on Milos, so we are not neutral, but we have tried to be fair: below is each island by category, a comparison table, and a straight answer for each kind of trip.

The three islands in one paragraph each

Santorini is a crescent of cliff around a flooded volcanic caldera, with Fira and Oia perched on the rim. The view is the reason to come, and it is genuinely one of the great views of the world. The beaches are black or red volcanic sand below the cliffs on the other side of the island, the towns are crowded with cruise passengers by day, the hotels are the most expensive in Greece, and the sunset in Oia is a shared experience with several thousand people.

Paros is the well-balanced island: a big pretty harbour town (Parikia), a gorgeous fishing-village-turned-nightlife-hub (Naoussa), long sandy beaches on the east coast (Golden Beach, Santa Maria), the famous rock-pools of Kolymbithres, a mountain village (Lefkes), windsurfing, and ferries to everywhere. It does nothing badly. In August it is very busy.

Milos is a volcanic island shaped like a horseshoe, with a coastline that changes colour every kilometre: white at Sarakiniko and Kleftiko, red and ochre at Paleochori and Firiplaka, grey at Gerontas. It has the most beaches in the Cyclades, the early Christian catacombs, fishing villages with painted boat garages, a hilltop capital with a castle sunset, and a western third with no roads at all, which is why the boat is the main event here rather than an optional extra. It is quieter, less polished and, after dinner, asleep.

Beaches

Milos. More than 70, the most varied in Greece. Long sand at Provatas, Agia Kiriaki, Paleochori and Firiplaka; the lunar white rock of Sarakiniko; cliff-backed coves at Tsigrado and Gerontas; and the boat-only icons, Kleftiko and Sykia cave. Water clarity is exceptional because there are no rivers. The south coast stays calm in the meltemi. Our guide to the beaches of Milos you can only reach by boat covers the best of them.

Paros. Good, sandy and well organised. Golden Beach and New Golden Beach (windsurfing), Santa Maria, Kolymbithres with its sculpted granite, Monastiri, and the short hop to Antiparos for more. Busier and more built-up than Milos, but with sunbeds, tavernas and water sports everywhere.

Santorini. The weak point. Black-sand Perissa, Perivolos and Kamari are long and organised but hot underfoot and grey; Red Beach is a photo stop; the water is deep and the coast is exposed. People do not come to Santorini for the beach, and they are right not to.

Verdict: Milos, then Paros, then Santorini, by a distance.

Scenery and villages

Santorini. The caldera. Whitewashed Oia and Fira stacked on a 300-metre cliff above a sea-filled volcano. Nothing else in Greece looks like it. The villages themselves are beautiful but overwhelmed, and much of Oia is hotels and jewellery shops.

Milos. Variety rather than one view: Plaka’s castle sunset over the gulf, the syrmata of Klima with their painted doors, Sarakiniko’s moonscape, the coloured cliffs, Pollonia’s harbour. Real villages where people live.

Paros. Classic Cycladic: Naoussa’s harbour and lanes, Parikia’s old town and Frankish castle, Lefkes in the hills. Pretty, lived-in, less dramatic than the other two.

Verdict: Santorini for the single view, Milos for the most to see, Paros for the prettiest everyday Cycladic feel.

Boat trips and the sea

This is where the three islands separate most.

Milos. A third of the coastline, including Kleftiko, has no road access. A boat is not a tour, it is how you see the island. Self-drive rentals without a licence (30 hp), skippered powerboats, sailing cruises, and the uninhabited island of Polyaigos next door with the clearest water in the group. From our base at Agia Kiriaki, Kleftiko is 20 to 30 minutes away; see the complete Kleftiko guide and half-day vs full-day routes. Snorkeling is the best of the three islands.

Paros. Good boat trips to Antiparos, Despotiko and the south coast sea caves, and the best windsurfing and kitesurfing in the Cyclades. The boat is a pleasant day out, not the point of the trip.

Santorini. Caldera cruises to the volcano and hot springs, and sunset catamaran trips, all excellent and all crowded. Swimming from the boat is the best swimming on Santorini.

Verdict: Milos by a wide margin for beaches, caves and self-drive freedom; Santorini for the sunset cruise; Paros for water sports.

Things to do beyond the beach

Milos: the catacombs at Tripiti (the largest early Christian catacombs in Greece), the ancient theatre and the spot where the Venus de Milo was found, the Mining Museum, the villages, the Kimolos day trip (guide). See our 3, 5 and 7-day itinerary.

Paros: the Byzantine church of Ekatontapiliani, the marble quarries that supplied ancient sculptors, Lefkes and the Byzantine path, the Antiparos cave, the Naoussa evening.

Santorini: Akrotiri, the Minoan town buried by the eruption (the best archaeological site of the three), the wineries on the volcanic slopes, the Fira to Oia cliff walk, the museum of prehistoric Thera.

Verdict: Santorini for archaeology and wine, Milos for geology and sea, Paros for a balanced mix.

Food and nightlife

Paros has the best nightlife of the three by far: Naoussa’s harbour bars and clubs, Parikia’s waterfront, beach bars at Punda and Santa Maria. Food is good everywhere.

Santorini has the most high-end restaurants, caldera-view dining at caldera-view prices, and a wine scene. Nightlife is in Fira, lively but not Mykonos.

Milos has excellent simple food, fish in Pollonia, tavernas in Plaka and Adamas, a beach taverna at Paleochori that cooks in the volcanic sand. Nightlife is a drink on the waterfront. If you want to dance, this is the wrong island.

Verdict: Paros for nightlife, Santorini for fine dining, Milos for honest tavernas and early nights.

Crowds, prices and season

Santorini is the most visited island in Greece: 2 million plus visitors a year on 76 square kilometres, cruise ships disgorging thousands a day into Fira, the highest hotel prices in the country, and a sunset in Oia that has to be queued for. Outside the caldera towns it calms down.

Paros is busy in July and August, especially Naoussa, and relaxed the rest of the season. Prices are mid-range, with budget options.

Milos is the quietest of the three, though it has been discovered: August is full and Sarakiniko gets crowded at midday. Prices are mid-range and good value in June and September. There are no large resorts, so it sells out rather than overflows. Our guide to the best time to visit Milos covers the seasons in detail.

Verdict: Milos for the fewest people, Paros in the middle, Santorini for the most.

Getting there and around

Santorini: international airport with direct flights from across Europe in season, plus 5 to 8-hour ferries from Piraeus and 2-hour fast ferries from Milos, Paros and Naxos. Getting around: buses are crowded, car hire is expensive, and the roads are jammed in August.

Paros: the ferry hub of the Cyclades, 3 to 4 hours from Piraeus, connections to everywhere, plus a small airport with Athens flights. Getting around is easy: good buses, cheap car and scooter hire.

Milos: airport with Athens flights (about 40 minutes), ferries from Piraeus in 2.5 to 7 hours depending on the boat, direct fast ferries to Santorini, Paros and Sifnos in season. Getting around: you want a car or ATV; buses cover the main villages and beaches. Everything is within 30 minutes. See where to stay in Milos.

Verdict: Paros easiest to reach and move around; Santorini easiest to fly to, hardest to move around; Milos in between.

Comparison table

The straight answer

• First Greek island, want a bit of everything: Paros.
• Honeymoon with the famous view: Santorini for two or three nights, then Milos for the sea.
• Beaches, swimming and snorkeling above all: Milos.
• A boat day is the highlight of your holiday: Milos, and rent your own; the no-licence Compass 150cc makes anyone a captain, see renting a boat in Milos without a licence.
• Families with children: Milos (calm south coast beaches, boat days, no traffic) or Paros (organised beaches, easy logistics). Not Santorini.
• Nightlife and a group of friends: Paros.
• Only three nights, want the photo: Santorini.
• Ten days and want the Cyclades properly: Milos and Paros, with Santorini as a two-night detour if you must.

Combining islands

• Milos and Paros: direct ferries in season, about 2 to 3 hours. Five nights Milos, four Paros is a classic ten-day Cyclades trip.
• Milos and Santorini: direct fast ferries in season, about 2 hours. Four or five nights on Milos for the sea, two on Santorini for the caldera.
• Milos and Kimolos: 20 minutes by ferry from Pollonia, a day trip or an overnight; see the Kimolos island guide.
• Milos and Sifnos: one hour by ferry, the quiet gastronomic island, a good pairing for food-minded travellers.

If the sea is the point, come to Milos

And when you do, the best way to see it is from the water. Rent the no-licence Compass 150cc for the south coast coves, or book the Compass 7s with our captain for Kleftiko and Sykia. Contact us with your dates.

FAQs

The best time to visit Milos is late May to early July and September to mid-October: the sea is warm (22 to 25 °C), the weather is settled, the meltemi wind is at its gentlest, and the island is busy without being full. July and August are hotter, windier and crowded but still wonderful if you plan around the wind. May and late October are quiet, cheaper and beautiful, with cooler water and a few closed tavernas. This guide goes month by month with real numbers, then explains the one factor most guides skip: the meltemi, and what it means for beach days and boat days.

Milos weather month by month

Figures are long-term monthly averages for Milos; individual days vary. Sea temperature lags the air by about a month, which is why September water is warmer than June’s.

Spring: April and May

April is green, wild-flowered and quiet, with warm days and cool nights. Swimming is for the brave (16 to 17 °C) and most beach tavernas are shut. Easter, when it falls in April, is the exception: Greek families come, the villages fill, and it is a wonderful time to be in Plaka.

May is the first real month. Days reach 24 °C, the sea climbs towards 19 °C by the end of the month, the wind is light, and you share Sarakiniko with a handful of people. Rooms are cheap, cars are easy. Boat rentals and most tavernas open through the month; ask before you book. The first light meltemi days arrive in the last week.

Early summer: June

June is, for many locals, the best month. The air is 28 to 29 °C, the sea 22 to 23 °C, the days are the longest of the year and the meltemi, though present, is moderate and mostly an afternoon affair. Everything is open, nothing is full. Kleftiko in the morning is glassy more often than not. Prices are high-season from mid-month but rooms are still findable a few weeks out. The only drawback is that June has become known, and the last two weeks are noticeably busier than the first.

High summer: July and August

The hottest, windiest and busiest months. Air around 30 °C, sea at its peak of 24 to 25 °C, zero rain, 12 hours of sun. Milos sells out: rooms, cars, boats, restaurant tables in Pollonia. August 15 is the busiest week of the year.

The meltemi is the defining feature. It blows most days, hardest from mid-July to late August, building from late morning to a peak in the afternoon and easing at night. On strong days it roughs up the north coast beaches (Sarakiniko, Pollonia, Papafragas) and the exposed west, while the south coast (Agia Kiriaki, Provatas, Firiplaka, Paleochori) stays swimmable. It also dries the heat, which is why 30 °C on Milos feels better than 30 °C in Athens.

July and August work if you plan around it: beaches and boats in the morning, villages and shade in the afternoon, a south-coast base, and everything booked in advance. Our guide to where to stay in Milos covers which areas stay calm.

Late summer: September

September is June with warmer water and fewer people. The sea is 24 °C, the air 27 °C, the meltemi fades through the month, and from the second week onward the island exhales. Rooms reappear, the beaches empty out, and the light turns golden. For boat days it is the best month of the year: warm water, calm mornings that stay calm into the afternoon, and Kleftiko with half the boats of August. Everything stays open until the end of the month.

Autumn: October and November

Early October is still summer by most standards: 23 to 24 °C, sea 22 °C, calm seas and the clearest water of the year for snorkeling. The first autumn rain usually comes mid-month, tavernas and boat operators start closing from around the 15th, and ferry schedules thin. Late October is quiet and lovely if you are self-sufficient. November is off-season: mild, showery, most things shut, the island to yourself.

Winter: December to March

Mild, wet and windy by Aegean standards, 13 to 15 °C by day. Milos is a working island (mining, fishing, a year-round population of about 5,000) so Adamas and Plaka never fully close, but tourism does. Ferries from Piraeus run year-round, reduced. Come for walking, the catacombs without queues and empty Sarakiniko; not for swimming or boats.

The meltemi explained

The meltemi is the dry north to north-east wind that blows across the Aegean in summer, created by the pressure difference between the high over the Balkans and the low over Turkey. On Milos:

• Season: late May to late September, strongest mid-July to late August.
• Daily pattern: calm at dawn, building from late morning, peaking mid-afternoon (often force 5 to 6, sometimes 7 on a strong day), easing after sunset.
• Duration: it blows in episodes of two to five days, with calmer days between. A strong episode can last a week in August.
• What it means for beaches: the north coast takes the wind and the waves, the south coast is sheltered. On a meltemi day go south: Agia Kiriaki, Provatas, Firiplaka, Tsigrado, Paleochori.
• What it means for boats: mornings are for distance (Kleftiko, Sykia), afternoons for the sheltered coves. Our base at Agia Kiriaki is on the sheltered side, which is why the south coast routes run on most days even in August. We check the forecast every morning and tell you plainly which routes are on; see half-day vs full-day boat trips.
• What it means for ferries: high-speed boats occasionally cancel on force 7 or 8 days; the big conventional ferries almost never do.

Best time for boat days and Kleftiko

For a self-drive boat or a skippered day to Kleftiko, the ranking is clear:

1. September: warmest calm water, fading wind, fewer boats. The best month.
2. June: long days, moderate wind, everything open.
3. Early October: calm and clear, slightly cooler water, quiet.
4. Late May: calm but the sea is still cool (18 to 19 °C) and some operators are just opening.
5. July and August: superb mornings, windy afternoons. Book the morning slot, leave early, expect some days to switch to the south coast coves.

From our platform at Agia Kiriaki, Kleftiko is 20 to 30 minutes by fast boat, which is why it fits a calm morning even in high season; see the complete Kleftiko guide. On days when it is off, the south coast coves and, with a Pollonia pick-up, the Kimolos channel are the alternatives; see the Kimolos island guide.

Crowds, prices and what is open

Our boat prices are the same from May to October, 180 € for a half day in the no-licence Compass 150cc to 950 € for a full all-inclusive day on the skippered Compass 7s; see which boat to rent in Milos. What changes is availability.

Pick your month, then pick your morning

Whenever you come, the calmest hours are before noon. Contact us with your dates and we will tell you what the season usually brings and which boat and route fit it.

FAQs