Pollonia, Milos: The Fishing Village, Its Beaches and the Boat to Kimolos

Pollonia is the small harbour village on the north east tip of Milos, a curve of white houses, fish tavernas and moored caiques facing the island of Kimolos across a narrow channel. It is quieter than Adamas, flatter and more seaside than Plaka, and it is the starting point for the short crossing to Kimolos and for boat days around Polyaigos, the largest uninhabited island in the Aegean. This guide covers what Pollonia is like, its beaches and food, how to get to Kimolos from here, and how our boats fit in when you stay on this side of the island.

Where Pollonia is and what it is like

Pollonia sits on a sheltered inlet on the north eastern corner of Milos, about 10 km from Adamas. The road from the port runs past Triovasalos and the prehistoric site of Fylakopi before dropping down to the sea. The village is built right around the water: a promenade lined with tamarisk trees, a small fishing harbour with colourful boats, a church on the waterfront and a row of tavernas and cafés facing the channel. Across the narrow channel you see the bare hills and white village of Kimolos.

It is a small place. At the 2021 census Pollonia had 268 permanent residents, and in winter it is a quiet fishing village. In summer the population swells with visitors staying in the studios, apartments and small hotels around the bay and on the slopes behind it, and the waterfront becomes one of the liveliest places on the island in the evening, without ever feeling like a resort town.

Most of the buildings follow the classic Cycladic style: white cubes, coloured doors and shutters, flat roofs and small gardens. There are mini markets, shops and car rentals, so you can spend a whole holiday here without depending on Adamas.

Is Pollonia worth visiting?

Yes, even if you are not staying there. Pollonia is one of the prettiest seaside villages on Milos, and it works well for three kinds of visit:

• An evening out. The evening light on the waterfront, the lights coming on across the channel in Kimolos and a fish dinner by the water are a classic Milos evening.
• A beach morning. The main beach is sandy and shallow, which suits families, and it is sheltered from the north wind on most days.
• A starting point. The ferry to Kimolos leaves from here, and many boat trips to Kimolos and Polyaigos start from the channel between the two islands.

If you want nightlife, archaeology and ferries to Athens, Adamas is more convenient. If you want quiet streets, the sea on your doorstep and seafood every night, Pollonia is hard to beat. For a comparison of all the bases on the island, read our guide to where to stay in Milos.

The beaches of Pollonia

The main beach runs along the bay in front of the village. It has fine sand, very shallow water close to shore and tamarisk trees that give natural shade, with the tavernas only a few steps away. Because it is inside a sheltered inlet, the sea is usually calm, and it is one of the easiest beaches on Milos for small children.

Polychroni is a small organised beach close to the village, with sunbeds and a relaxed feel.

Piso Thalassa, which means the back sea, lies on the other side of the small peninsula, facing a different direction. When the wind blows into the main bay, Piso Thalassa can be the calmer option, and the reverse is also true.

Further out, the north coast of Milos has some of the most famous beaches on the island, including Sarakiniko with its white lunar rock, the fishing coves of Firopotamos and Papafragas. For the rest of the island, see our guide to Milos beaches by boat.

Where to eat in Pollonia

Pollonia is known on Milos as the village of fish tavernas. Several restaurants line the waterfront, most of them serving the catch of the day from the boats in the harbour, along with Greek salads, fried calamari, octopus and local cheeses. There are also cafés for breakfast and coffee by the water.

A few tips:

• In July and August, book a table for dinner, especially for the waterfront tables at sunset.
• Ask for the fish of the day and its price by the kilo before you order, as is normal in Greek fish tavernas.
• Try the local cheese pies known as pitarakia, a Milos speciality.

If you are out on a boat for the day, lunch in Pollonia is not practical from our base on the south coast, but on routes that start with a pick up at Pollonia, a long dinner back in the village is the perfect end to the day.

Things to do in and around Pollonia

• Walk to the cape of Pelekouda. A short walk east of the village leads to the lighthouse and the small church at the tip of the cape, with wide views over the channel to Kimolos and Polyaigos.
• Visit Fylakopi. On the road to Adamas are the ruins of Fylakopi, one of the most important prehistoric settlements of the Cyclades, once a centre of the obsidian trade.
• Swim at Papafragas. A few minutes west by car, this narrow inlet between high cliffs is one of the most photographed spots on the north coast; our guide to the sea caves of Milos explains how it looks from the sea.
• Go to Sarakiniko. The white moonscape beach is about 10 minutes away by car, best early in the morning.
• Take the boat to Kimolos. A half day or a full day on the neighbouring island is the easiest excursion from Pollonia.
• Stay for the evening. The waterfront faces north east, and the soft light on Kimolos and the boats in the harbour at dusk is one of the calmest scenes on the island.

For a complete plan of the island with day by day suggestions, see things to do in Milos.

From Pollonia to Kimolos and Polyaigos

The ferry to Kimolos. A small ferry connects Pollonia with Psathi, the port of Kimolos, several times a day in season. The crossing is short, and many visitors do Kimolos as a day trip on foot or with a rented scooter on the other side. Timetables change with the season, so check them at the port or with a local agency before you plan the day. Our Kimolos island guide covers the beaches, the villages and what to see once you land.

By private boat. A boat opens up everything the ferry cannot: the beaches of Kimolos that have no road, such as Prassa with its white sand, and the island of Polyaigos opposite, which has no inhabitants, no roads and no ferry at all. Polyaigos has some of the clearest water in the Cyclades, sea caves and coves you share with a handful of boats. Read our guide to visiting Polyaigos by boat.

Our own route for this area is a full day, around 9 hours, that circles Kimolos in the morning, stops at Prassa and the boat garages of Goupa, then crosses to Polyaigos for Blue Bay, the coloured cliffs and the sea caves, with lunch at anchor in Mersini. It runs with our captain on the Compass 7s or self drive on the no licence Compass 150cc, and pick up at Pollonia or at Psathi on Kimolos is available on request. The full list of routes is on our Milos boat tours page.

Staying in Pollonia and renting a boat

Our boats are kept at a floating platform at Agia Kiriaki, on the south coast of Milos. From Pollonia it is a drive across the island, and it is worth it when you want the south coast: Kleftiko is only 20 to 30 minutes from our platform, and the coloured beaches of Firiplaka, Tsigrado and Gerontas are a few minutes away.

When your day is about Kimolos and Polyaigos, the logic is reversed, and a pick up at Pollonia saves the drive. Tell us where you are staying when you book and we will suggest the best starting point.

Our boats and prices:

Fuel and taxes are not included. Half days run 09:00 to 14:00 or 14:30 to 19:30, full days 10:00 to 19:00, and a skipper can join the 150cc or the 165cc for 60 € for a half day or 120 € for a full day. For details on each boat, see which boat to rent in Milos, and if you have never driven a boat before, read renting a boat in Milos without a licence.

Wind, weather and the best time to go

Pollonia faces north east, and the channel between Milos and Kimolos funnels the north wind. On calm days the crossing is smooth and the water is glassy; on strong meltemi days, most common in July and August afternoons, the channel can be choppy and small boats stay in the south. So the route of the day depends on the forecast: Kimolos and Polyaigos on calm days, the sheltered south coast when the north wind blows.

May, June and September are the most comfortable months, with warm water, fewer crowds and lighter winds. Our guide to the best time to visit Milos covers the months, the sea temperature and the meltemi in detail.

Planning a day around Kimolos and Polyaigos from Pollonia? Send us your dates and where you are staying. Contact us.

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